Thursday, August 31, 2006

Let's All Sing "Ratatouille"!

Adding to the peace of mind one attains when subscribing to a CSA, the weekly box of local organic produce has an especial virtue: Seasonal dishes that sing the harmonies of veggies peaking simultaneously. As the summer heightens to its crescendo, the tomatoes are plentiful and di-vine; the squashes twinkle like bursting stars; and the respelendent, young eggplants (aubergine = berenjena = brinjal = garden egg = egg apple = patlican = melongene = melanzane = Guinea squash) are regal, not bitter.

What dish most vibrates life and produce at summer's denouement? Why RATATOUILLE, of course! The name draws on the French alteration of toillier (or touiller), which means to stir, or to mix. Also related to "toil," what finer way to celebrate the labor of our local farmers, who have tilled the earth for us!

The following recipe is inspired variously, dating back beyond memory, but I hope to impart a wisdom here drawn from The Voluptuous Vegan-- a cookbook so coveted that it vanished with some so-called friend of food, give it back!!! -- that is, a respect for each ingredient's singular properties, which refines the vegan palate and elevates the vegan plate.

Ingredients
As is my way, I allow you to choose your quantities. (Mine are usually dictated by what's in the box!)

Onion
Eggplant
Tomato
Squash
Fresh Basil
Olive oil
Polenta
Music and conversation

Proceedings:
I suggest music, so you remember that this process is about each loving minute you spend ratatouill-ing these beautiful veggies. Reliable helpers are always welcome to skip ahead and start cutting!

1. Boil the polenta right away, with cracked pepper and a little salt. Let it stand as you proceed with everything else.
2. Peel long stripes off your eggplant, and then cube it small-ish-ly. Salt these cubes, somewhat liberally, and put them in a colander over a bowl of water. Watch them sweat for an half-hour, while you attend to other things.
3. Put enough oil in your castiron skillet to slow cook your onion/s until they glow pellucid (translucent). Transfer the cooked onion to a side dish, and wipe out your skillet with a paper towel or its dry equivalent. (I know, paper towels are precious, but wiping removes little bits of things that create grease-fire and smoke, while allowing you to build flavor in your skillet.)
4. Cube your squash.
5. Cube your tomatoes.
6. Mince your basil. I like to wash it, pick off the leaves, stack them, roll them , and then cut them into fine long slices with scissors. (My clumsy modification of the chiffonade française.)
7. Put your skillet back on medium low heat and return the onions to the fire. (If you intend to add any spices that you might be addicted to, such as herbs provencal, go ahead, since this dish harks from that region, now is the time, if any. Wait to the end to add salt, though.) Now, add your basil.
8. Add your squash cubes. Cook, stirring gently until slightly underdone. (Retain its firmness and your mouth will be happy!) Transfer. Wipe.
9. Add your tomatoes and turn up the heat for a brief ten seconds, if your tomatoes are super juicy. Return to medium/low heat.
10. Transfer everyone to the side dish again, and prepare your skillet appropriately to receive the eggplant. Cook it until it is done, not soggy.
11. Return all ingredients to the skillet and mix everything gently. Add salt and pepper, if needed "To taste" is your operative phrase here, since the eggplant might have enought salt, and the polenta might have enough pepper.
12. On the side or on top of your polenta, your ratatouille should incite a symphony among your most critical taste buds!

Just listen, you'll hear a sweet "Bon appétit! Buen provecho! Buon Appetito!"